Thursday, 30 November 2017

Fujifilm X RAW STUDIO Launches: RAW Conversion Aided by a Camera

Fujifilm just announced X RAW STUDIO, a new RAW conversion software that aims to speed up the conversion of RAW files by offloading the processing to a connected Fujifilm camera.

Originally announced back in September, Fujifilm X RAW STUDIO helps speed up the time-consuming task of batch converting RAW files by utilizing the built-in X-Processor Pro image processing engine in Fujifilm cameras.

“Users can store conversion settings or copy settings between images, and variable image processing conditions can be adjusted in the same way as in-camera RAW conversion,” Fujifilm says.

Using both Mac and PC computers, photographers can do single or batch conversions of RAW files after connecting a Fujifilm camera. Settings for the image processing can be adjusted just like with the in-camera RAW conversions of those cameras.

“All conversion parameters available through in-camera RAW conversion are adjustable, enabling photographers to monitor results in a preview window when changing settings,” Fujifilm says.

To help you work faster, conversion profiles on RAW images can be saved, loaded, and copied. And to give you a better view of what your adjustments are doing to your result, the program has a side-by-side before-and-after comparison feature.

Fujifilm X RAW STUDIO is a free program that’s now available for Mac (the download is on Fujifilm’s website). The Windows version of the software will launch in February 2018.



from PetaPixel https://petapixel.com/2017/11/30/fujifilm-x-raw-studio-launches-raw-conversion-aided-camera/

How to use Off-Camera Flash to Create Dramatic Images with Cross Lighting

Learning to use off-camera flash allows you to create and shape light, giving you plenty of new opportunities for dramatic photography.

But for many photographers, starting up with flash can be intimidating. It’s not just a matter of aiming a flash at your subject and hoping for the best. Choosing the wrong angle or positioning for your flash can have a negative effect, casting unflattering or irregular shadows.

A tennis player lit by off-camera flash cross lighting

A tennis player lit by off-camera flash cross lighting

I remember when I was starting out with off-camera flash I would sometimes get images where the light simply didn’t look right. But when it’s used effectively, flash adds to an image – it shouldn’t make the lighting seem unnatural or otherworldly (unless, of course, that’s the effect you’re going for – to each their own!).

But where’s a good place to start? Where should you put your flash in order to get good light? This article will show you one method you can use called cross lighting that you can use to create dramatic images with off-camera flash.

What is cross lighting?

For both beginners and pros alike, cross lighting is a very quick and simple setup that results in a dramatic, well-lit shot.

Like the name implies, this setup features two light sources on opposite sides of the subject. Hitting your subject from both sides adds a sense of depth to the image, while still producing natural-looking light.

An example showing an off-camera flash cross lighting setup for a portrait of a tennis player.

An example showing an off-camera flash cross lighting setup for a portrait of a tennis player.

The key or main light

Typically you want your light that will provide the most illumination, also know as the key light, placed in front of the subject and a bit to one side. For portraits, you will typically want to use a modifier on your light, such as a softbox or umbrella. This isn’t a requirement – but it will help soften the shadows and create more flattering light on the subject.

The purpose of this key flash is to light up the subject’s features and put a sparkle of catch light in their eyes.

A demonstration of the key light only in a cross lighting setup - How to do Cross Lighting to Create Dramatic Off-Camera Flash Images

We convinced this model to act as our stand-in for a few quick portrait shots. Here is an image with only the key light, an off-camera flash positioned to the right of the camera.

Add a second flash as a rim or separation light

The second light is placed behind the subject on the opposite side as the first one. The purpose of this light is to create an “edge” of light around your subject. This is traditionally called a “rim light” or a “separation light” since it helps to separate the subject from the background.

Demonstration of cross lighting on a subject

By adding a second light to the left of the camera and behind our model, we’ve created a rim of light that separates him from the background for a much more pleasing and dynamic image. Notice the highlight on his hat and hand on the left side.

Voila! This quick setup is an easy way to get started and start exploring the creative potential of a shoot. As you begin to snap pictures, you may find something about your setup that you want to change, but the cross lighting gives you a solid foundation from which to build.

An alternate setup of the previous cross lighting example with the off- camera flash locations reversed

We’ve flipped the orientation of the lights for this shot – while keeping the same cross-lighting style. Now our key light is on the left, and the rim light is provided from the right.

Quick to set up

One of the reasons I love using this setup for off-camera flash is that it takes away the guesswork and provides a solid foundation of light that you can then begin to work with and modify.

And also that it takes only moments to set up! When you start lugging around multiple flash units, light stands, and modifiers, it’s nice to have a consistent starting position that provides even lighting.

An example image showing the setup of flash units for cross lighting - How to do Cross Lighting to Create Dramatic Off-Camera Flash Images

An overview of our setup, with the flashes oriented for cross-lighting and our subject right in between.

The final image of a carpenter, photographed using cross lighting - How to do Cross Lighting to Create Dramatic Off-Camera Flash Images

The final shot, where the light has given a sense of depth to make the subject stand out from the clutter behind him.

It’s a good idea to get the correct flash power for your key light dialed in before adding your second flash. Trying to figure out the correct outputs for two lights at the same time and adjusting in your camera on the fly is a recipe for a headache.

Cross lighting with a single flash

One of the reasons this setup is so easy and versatile is because you don’t necessarily need to use two flash units – the sun can step in as either your key or secondary light.

This approach is particularly effective at golden hour. As evening falls and soft, warm light floods across the fields, you have a ready-made separation light. Many natural light photographers are already familiar with this and use this rim light in their shots.

Example of a portrait shot with cross lighting using a single off-camera flash as a key light and the sun as a secondary light

The key light here is an off-camera flash fired into an umbrella just outside the left edge of the image. The sun, coming from the right, acts as the secondary light. The key here is in balancing the flash with the natural light.

The benefit of adding an off-camera flash as a key light is that you can create a much more dramatic image with dark, rich colors. Colors lose their vibrancy as they get brighter. By keeping the exposure low and using your off-camera flash to light up your subject, your background can be full of vivid contrast and color.

Using the sun as your key light

The sun doesn’t always have to play second fiddle to your flash. You can create the same effect by using the sun as your key light – coming in at your subject from a slight angle – and then using your off-camera flash as the rim or separation light.

The biggest drawback here is that you can’t adjust the power of the sun quite as easily as you can on the back of your flash! However, taking the time to learn how your camera settings can make a picture darker or lighter, and how you can use this skills in conjunction with your off-camera flash, will give you allow you to build the shot you want.

Cross lighting with a flash and a reflector

Here’s the last variation of this setup. By setting up your off-camera flash on one side of the subject and angling a reflector just right on the other, you can mimic the effect of two light sources. This approach might take a bit of practice and a steady hand, but it’s a fun way to learn what you can accomplish as you learn how to control light.

An example of a portrait using a reflector and sunlight to create cross light

Here we used a reflector to provide the key light from the left side of the shot, while the sun comes from the back right.

Give it a shot

Learning to maneuver and shape light is a fun challenge. Being able to quickly and reliably get top-notch results with flash is an important aspect of photography – especially if your model or clients are waiting impatiently for you to get your lighting figured out.

By starting with cross lighting and working from there, you have a reliable method for nailing some great shots. Please share your comments, questions and cross lighting images in the comments section below.

The post How to use Off-Camera Flash to Create Dramatic Images with Cross Lighting by Frank Myrland appeared first on Digital Photography School.



from Digital Photography School https://digital-photography-school.com/off-camera-flash-create-dramatic-images-cross-lighting/

How to Easily Use RGB Curves to Tone Your Photos

RGB Curves can be an intimidating photo editing tool that’s difficult to wrap your mind around, but they’re powerful and worth learning. Photographer Conner Turmon made this helpful 8.5-minute video that explains how tone curves work and how you can use them to create professional-looking photos.

The tool is available in both Photoshop and Lightroom (and most serious photo editing apps), so this tutorial is relevant regardless of which program you’re using.

“Mastering RGB Curves is extremely simple despite its daunting look,” Turmon says. “Professional photographers use RGB Curves to color correct their images quickly and easily.”

In the tutorial, Turmon shares how you can create a color you want by adjusting one or more of the red, green, or blue curves. He also discusses using “selective vision” to focus your eyes on only the shadows, midtones, or highlights of a photo as you’re editing those areas.

“Do not look at the image as a whole, because you’re going to confuse yourself,’ Turmon says. “Look at what you are affecting.”

If you found this tutorial helpful, you can find more of Turmon’s videos by subscribing to his YouTube channel.

(via Conner Turmon via Reddit)



from PetaPixel https://petapixel.com/2017/11/30/easily-use-rgb-curves-tone-photos/

Capture One 11 Unveiled with New Features and Better Performance

Phase One has just announced Capture One 11. The latest version of the popular raw converter and image processing software brings a new processing engine along with a number of powerful new features.

Here’s a rundown of the new features found in Capture One 11 along with descriptions by Phase One:

Annotations

“Annotate your images in Capture One by adding handwritten notes and drawings directly on your images. Use it to remember what caught you in the moment, make notes to share with your retoucher, or simply jot down a reminder for yourself for later. Include the Annotations in your exported PSD file as a separate layer for ideal flexibility.”

Layered Workflow

“All adjustment tools are now compatible with Layers, making Capture One a truly “layer centric” application. With this we are introducing a new and more dynamic workspace. Local Adjustments has been renamed to Layers and is now included in multiple Tool tabs, making it easier to work with a layered editing workflow.”

Layer Opacity

“Control the impact of your local adjustments by changing the opacity of each layer. Once adjustments are made across as many tools as needed, simply drag the opacity slider to decrease the overall impact of the layer.”

Feather Mask & Refine Mask

“Softening the edges of a mask after drawing is simplified with the Feather Mask feature. Avoid having to redraw masks by simply dragging a slider to feather the edges.

“The Refine Edge lets you make a more precise edge on your mask. Create a clean and adjustable mask with many uses, for example, picking out hair against a background. Use with the improved Auto Mask function for precision results.”

Export Crop to Path

“When applying a crop in Capture One, you can now use the Export Path to include the crop as a path when you export to PSD. By storing the crop as a Path in your exported PSD file, the full image can be used for retouching or even alternate cropping at a later stage.”

Duplicate Checker

“The Duplicate Checker makes sure that you don’t import the same file twice in your Catalog or Session. The robust catching-mechanism ensures that importing the difference from the last import is easy and efficient.”

Color Improvements

“Improved handling of color makes sure layered color adjustments work to perfection. The Color Balance, Color Editor, White Balance and other tools have been re-engineered to show smoother transitions between each layer.”

Editing Speed

“The overall performance of Capture One has been increased, which gives a smoother and faster experience when editing. This is especially helpful when fine-tuning adjustments.”

Grey Scale

“Visualize your mask without the distraction of the image by switching to Grey Scale. Missed areas of your mask are now easily caught and corrected.”

Here’s a short video introducing the new features in Capture One 11:

You can purchase Capture One 11 for Windows and Mac for $300 if you’d like a perpetual license. It’s also available as a subscription-based software for $20 per month or $180 if you pre-pay for one year. Existing owners of Capture One 9 or 10 can upgrade for $120. Finally, if you’ve never used Capture One before, you can download a 30-day free trial from the Phase One website.



from PetaPixel https://petapixel.com/2017/11/30/capture-one-11-unveiled-new-features-better-performance/

Lightroom Mobile – The Secret to Shooting and Editing on Your Smartphone

Why use Lightroom Mobile

Many people don’t realize the benefits of using Lightroom Mobile with your Adobe Lightroom Subscription. When you subscribe to Adobe’s Photographer’s plan, not only will you receive Adobe Lightroom Classic, but you also get access to Lightroom Mobile.

Lightroom Mobile - The Secret to Shooting and Editing on Your Smartphone

Lightroom Mobile is a cloud-based program which originates from your Lightroom Classic desktop. It’s easy to set up, and Adobe’s help desk is there to quickly assist if you have any questions. You not only have the ability to share your images across multiple devices, but you can also shoot and edit quality RAW images right from your phone or tablet.

 Setting up Lightroom Mobile

The first thing you need to do is enable Lightroom Mobile from within your desktop version of Lightroom. This will signal Lightroom to sync the files that you select. Below is a screenshot of Lightroom’s Activity Screen that shows the status of Lightroom mobile. The activity screen is located in the upper left-hand corner of your Lightroom desktop page.
Lightroom Mobile - The Secret to Shooting and Editing on Your Smartphone

Creating Collections

The secret to working with Lightroom Mobile is to create collections within your Lightroom desktop version that you want to sync with Mobile. It will not automatically sync everything in your Lightroom catalog, you have to tell it which images you want to show on your devices and this is done through collections. I wouldn’t recommend syncing all your images to Lightroom Mobile. Leave this for special collections and your portfolio.

Select a group of images you would like to include in a collection and navigate to the collection module on the left panel of the Lightroom desktop app. Click the + sign in the collections pane to create a new collection.

Lightroom Mobile - The Secret to Shooting and Editing on Your Smartphone

Create a new collection.

Once you have created the collections and added images to them, you need to be sure that these collections will sync. When you first create them, there is a box to tick to enable Lightroom Mobile and syncing between devices – make sure that is checked off.

Lightroom Mobile - The Secret to Shooting and Editing on Your Smartphone

Enable Lightroom Mobile

If you don’t enable Lightroom Mobile upon import or when you create a new collection, you can always enable it after the fact by making sure the firebolt is enabled located to the left of the collection name. Just tick the box next to the collection you want to sync and the firebolt will show.

Lightroom Mobile - The Secret to Shooting and Editing on Your Smartphone

Firebolt Icon is Located to the Left of the Collection Title

To stop a Collection from syncing with your device, do one of the following in the Collections panel:

  • Click the firebolt sync icon next to the name of the Collection to turn it off.
  • Right-click a Collection and deselect Sync With Lightroom Mobile from the sync menu.

Viewing Images on Your Device

If your Lightroom Mobile is enabled correctly, you will need to sign into the Adobe Creative Cloud with your password. The mobile version should start filling up with the collections you enabled on your Lightroom desktop. You can also enable Lightroom Mobile to automatically pull images that you take from your Mobile device. Make sure you create a special collection of those images only.

Creating Images with Lightroom Mobile

With the current version of Lightroom mobile, you can create images on your Smartphone with the app. It gives you the option of either shooting in JPG or DNG. You can also shoot in automatic or professional mode and use a variety of presets. I prefer to shoot an image without any preset adjustments made to it and apply any edits afterward. That way you will always have the un-retouched original image.

The automatic shooting mode on Lightroom mobile works really well. It gives you separate focus and exposure points as well as overexposure indicators that show up as a series of parallel lines indicating highlight clipping. These three tools are the keys to getting a good shot on your mobile device. If you scrub left or right on the screen, the highlight clipping indicators will go away when the exposure becomes balanced. If portions of the image are overexposed, it will show up as you see in the image of my white dog below.

Lightroom Mobile - The Secret to Shooting and Editing on Your Smartphone

Automatic Shooting Mode with Over Exposure Highlights

The beauty of using Lightroom Mobile is you can edit images on your Mobile device or from your main computer. They can be located in a collection taken with your DSLR, or they can be images taken with your cell phone and located in your Lightroom Mobil collection.

Note: if you have your monitor calibrated, the colors may come out differently on your pad or phone if you decide to edit from there. No editing is permanent within Lightroom, so it’s an easy fix if it doesn’t look right on your main desktop computer.

One of the keys to success in mobile photography is to get it right in the camera just like a DSLR. Using these tools with this intuitive mobile app will help you accomplish that goal.

Please keep in mind, your phone or tablet is not a DSLR, so know that the images will not be of the same quality as a high megapixel DSLR. However, the Lightroom Mobile camera app gives you some great tools to create some really nice Smartphone images.

Editing in Lightroom Mobile

Once you have created your images and imported them to Lightroom Mobile (either from your desktop or from your smartphone), you have almost as many options for editing on your device as you do on your desktop.

If you tap on the edit screen in the top left corner, it will open up a menu of several different editing options.

Lightroom Mobile - The Secret to Shooting and Editing on Your Smartphone

Select the Edit Tool

On the edit screen, you can choose to edit the image globally or choose selections and edit specific areas individually. This is how to start a post-processing workflow, whether you’re using Lightroom Classic CC desktop version or Lightroom Mobile.

Then you can go through the different options for post-processing, starting with light, color, effects and finishing off with detail. You can also make a selection in your image and go through all of those same adjustments, just affecting the selected areas.

Local Adjustments

By tapping on the selective icon on the bottom left, it will bring up a menu with a paintbrush. Tap on the brush, and then select the middle brush size and paint with your finger over the area you would like to edit. If you overdo it, you can use the eraser tool to clean up your selection. After you make the selection, then you can make any number of adjustments on just that area. Once you have made all the necessary adjustments, save your edits.

Lightroom Mobile - The Secret to Shooting and Editing on Your Smartphone

Using this technique will give you the most interesting effects by truly painting with light and not just adding random light adjustments for the whole image.

Give Lightroom Mobile a try and make it a part of your everyday photo organizing and editing. Give some of these selective tools a try and let me know how it goes in the comments area below.

The post Lightroom Mobile – The Secret to Shooting and Editing on Your Smartphone by Holly Higbee-Jansen appeared first on Digital Photography School.



from Digital Photography School https://digital-photography-school.com/lightroom-mobile-shooting-editing-smartphone/